
Corona
del Mar in 1924. The structure on the hill is the Palisades
Tavern (a.k.a., Hotel Del Mar), built in 1908. The foreground
shows the Bay Pier George Hart built for people coming by
boat, the more common practice; Corona del Mar well before the
east jetty was built in 1928. The fact that the west jetty
exists and a few homes dot the blufftop, dates it after 1917.
Other than that, as for CdM at the time, it's all speculation.
If there's one constant to Corona del Mar's 100-year
history, it's change. Whether it's the current
"mansionization" of the once quaint (read, forgotten) village
thanks to skyrocketing real estate values, the booming times
after the war, or the schemes and struggles to put CdM on the
map at all in its early years, CdM has had a rollercoaster
history as colorful as its vintage cottages.
 CdM in
1928. The east jetty is underway but the harbor entrance is
still a dangerous prospect for yachties - but a great
opportunity for surfers; CdM in 1951. Irvine Terrace, Fashion
Island and the Newport Beach Country Club are still nowhere on
the scene. But notice how Coast Highway bends through the
center of CdM - changed from the route that Fifth Avenue runs
today; Corona del Mar in 1959, after the post-WWII boom time
for the town. Also note that Irvine Terrace - which was part
of the original land deal between Hart and The Irvine Company
- is beginning to fill in, along with Cameo Shores and Cameo
Highlands, in the foreground; CdM in 1966. Both Fashion
Island/Newport Center and UC Irvine are coming on line and
neighborhoods are starting to sprawl away from the water. The
interior, though, is still mostly bean fields and brush.
Officially, it started in 1904, when CdM was nothing
but the dream of L.A. developer George E. Hart, who bought
what was then known as Rocky Point, a small corner of the
100,000-acre Irvine Ranch. Hart paid $150 an acre for about
700 acres and subdivided half of it into 2,500 lots - the CdM
of today. "He only bought it because he was told the Red Car,
the electric railway, was coming to the area," says Dr. Bill
Hendricks, director and historian of CdM's Sherman Library and
Gardens. But the next year, the Pacific Electric Railway
owners decided not to extend service to CdM; then-struggling
Balboa became the end of the line. Corona del Mar remained the
land across the bay - accessed by small boat. In 1927,
you could find more people in the bay than on land in Corona
del Mar; Back in the day - the day being the 20s - Big Corona
was the spot for surfers, with smooth slow rollers giving long
rides across the harbor entrance sand bars.
Perhaps this is why in the following three
years, Hart sold only five lots. And it wasn't for lack of
trying. In the promises department, Hart was prolific;
unfortunately, the only things that kept pace were his
failures. To entice buyers, he promised an ocean pier, which
he tried to build at what is now Corona del Mar State Beach.
After being hammered by a few south swells, the pier was
destroyed. He promised abundant water, but it took years for
this to come through. He promised a Tent City to rival then
revered Coronado's; no tents materialized. He did come through
with a land route - today's Bayside Drive - and the
three-story Hotel Del Mar in 1908 - "It boasted a bathroom on
every floor," says Hendricks - but by 1915, Hart had only sold
about 100 lots and CdM consisted of just 15 homes. Defeated
and tired, Hart traded CdM for some farm land near Riverside.  The east
jetty wiped that out. But during its heyday, CdM not only was
the home turf of the mainlandŐs first surf organization, The
Corona del Mar Surfboard Club, but also attracted legends like
Californian Tom Blake and Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku.
Unfortunately, when Blake organized the first mainland surf
competition, the Pacific Coast Surf Riding Championships in
1928, the Duke was a no-show; Hotel Del Mar, opened in 1908 by
George Hart to help attract visitors and boost land sales.
That, along with promises of water, transportation and an
ocean pier, did little to help.
The new owner of CdM was F.D. Cornell, who
came to town as full as Hart with ideas on how to get CdM
booming. "First," says Hendricks, "he wanted to change the
name from Corona del Mar to Balboa Palisades, to try to take
advantage of the Balboa name." But the few CdM residents
objected. They had no problem with Cornell renaming all the
streets, however, from numbers to today's flower names.  The
first rocks get laid for the west jetty on September 10, 1917.
It would be extended in 1919 and perfected in 1928, when the
east jetty would be built; The date of this photo is unknown,
but the structure in the foreground is the Public Bath House,
which was something promised, and not delivered, for the first
third of CdM's history. The famous China House at China Cove
shows in the background; Atop the hill is the Hotel Del
Mar/Palisades Tavern. Notice the sign boasting Coast Boulevard
lots available. A hundred years later and it's all about ocean
views.
The China House was a famous landmark at China Cove
for decades. Built by a Pasadena man for his wife, who liked
all things Chinese, it was cherished by locals as a
"historical" treasure. Over much protest, it was torn down in
the mid-80s. But pieces still exist. Today, parts of its roof
grace two homes and there is a tiled plaque honoring the home
inset into a wall.
One of the first projects George Hart promised and
began was Pleasure Pier in 1905 at the beach now known as Big
Corona. Because of constant battering from waves, it was never
finished. This picture shows the remnants some time before all
traces were wiped out in 1912; Oh, if we could go back in
time: lots now in the millions sold for $100.
But nothing, it seemed, could interest buyers in what
was seen as the boonies of CdM. When the Great Depression hit,
all hope seemed lost - government repossessed lots were
available for as low as $25. Corona del Mar became a
vacationing spot for L.A. and Pasadena residents who hadn't
lost everything, and it remained that way until after WWII.
"We came to CdM from Kansas
in 1948," says 90-year-old Inez Howald, who still lives here.
She and her husband, local legend and the late CdM Postmaster
Grant Howald (the park is named after him), with their
eight-year-old son, came for the weather. But the weather was
the only thing easy about CdM in the 40s and 50s."There were
no markets," she says. "We could get milk, eggs and bread
delivered, but everything else we had to go to Santa Ana or
Long Beach for." Of course, they had all the lobster and fish
they wanted; the local waters still teemed with life.
And CdM did, too, in the form of
children. The post-war baby boom meant CdM was overrun with
kids, and the Howalds were instrumental in creating
opportunities for them in many ways. Aside from helping found
youth centers, parks, baseball diamonds, and schools, Grant
Howald established scouting in CdM, which peaked with the
famous Boy Scout Jamboree of 1953, when 50,000 scouts camped
out in the fields off Jamboree Road.  A Fourth
of July cruise in 1919. Does this count as the first harbor
Independence Day parade?; Corona del Mar from the highway. The
fact that it's there suggests it's post-1924.
One of the kids who was running around CdM at the
time was Charles Wolf Masters, Jr., whose father, a builder,
moved his family to CdM in 1946.Masters, Jr. was five years
old. "At first Masters Sr. was putting up pre-fab homes," says
Masters. He soon began building spec homes. And while he did
well, it wasn't the boom it is today; Masters Sr. built over
80 spec homes in CdM and "more than a few times came close to
losing his shirt," says Masters Jr. In fact, the China Cove
home Masters Jr. lives in today, one house away from the sand,
his father built in 1954 for $19,000. "He put it on the market
for $29,500," says Masters. "Everyone got mad because they
thought he was trying to drive up the prices on them." But he
was saved since his wife loved the house so much, she insisted
they move in themselves. Despite giving up building in 1964
because of the frustrations and red tape, they stayed the rest
of their lives.
"It was like
being Tom Sawyer as a kid in those days," says Masters. "It
was wide open. There was the Big C crew, the Little C crew;
Laguna was like an entirely other nation; the Wedge crew, who
never spoke but just growled a lot, and nothing above 5th
street."
But it couldn't
last. Corona del Mar was slowly becoming a more desirable
place to live, and as the 70s and 80s came, so did the people.
The face of CdM changed, and perhaps there was no better
example than the recent demolition of its first home: the
Ocean Blvd. home of Bella Burton and, until her death earlier
this year, her daughter Mary, who led the fight to save Corona
del Mar State Beach from development in the 40s.
But while many have left CdM, fleeing
the 30-by-90 lots, the traffic, and the construction, many
realize that the essence of the place has not changed. CdM may
be worth more on paper, and beach cottages are harder to come
by than 4,000-square-foot manses, but at heart, CdM is still a
small town. A place where residents buy flowers at the local
stand, meet at the local Post Office and watch the sunset from
a place called Inspiration Point. It's a place that feels all
alone, in the middle of Southern California.
|