Orange County coastal real estate in Corona del Mar, Laguna Beach, Newport Beach and Newport Coast

Corona del Mar History

100 Years of Solitude

A century ago, a developer from L.A. saw Corona del Mar's potential. But until relatively recently, few agreed with him.

BY TERENCE LOOSE

Corona del Mar in 1924. The structure on the hill is the Palisades Tavern (a.k.a., Hotel Del Mar), built in 1908. The foreground shows the Bay Pier George Hart built for people coming by boat, the more common practice; Corona del Mar well before the east jetty was built in 1928. The fact that the west jetty exists and a few homes dot the blufftop, dates it after 1917. Other than that, as for CdM at the time, it's all speculation.

If there's one constant to Corona del Mar's 100-year history, it's change. Whether it's the current "mansionization" of the once quaint (read, forgotten) village thanks to skyrocketing real estate values, the booming times after the war, or the schemes and struggles to put CdM on the map at all in its early years, CdM has had a rollercoaster history as colorful as its vintage cottages.



CdM in 1928. The east jetty is underway but the harbor entrance is still a dangerous prospect for yachties - but a great opportunity for surfers; CdM in 1951. Irvine Terrace, Fashion Island and the Newport Beach Country Club are still nowhere on the scene. But notice how Coast Highway bends through the center of CdM - changed from the route that Fifth Avenue runs today; Corona del Mar in 1959, after the post-WWII boom time for the town. Also note that Irvine Terrace - which was part of the original land deal between Hart and The Irvine Company - is beginning to fill in, along with Cameo Shores and Cameo Highlands, in the foreground; CdM in 1966. Both Fashion Island/Newport Center and UC Irvine are coming on line and neighborhoods are starting to sprawl away from the water. The interior, though, is still mostly bean fields and brush.

Officially, it started in 1904, when CdM was nothing but the dream of L.A. developer George E. Hart, who bought what was then known as Rocky Point, a small corner of the 100,000-acre Irvine Ranch. Hart paid $150 an acre for about 700 acres and subdivided half of it into 2,500 lots - the CdM of today. "He only bought it because he was told the Red Car, the electric railway, was coming to the area," says Dr. Bill Hendricks, director and historian of CdM's Sherman Library and Gardens. But the next year, the Pacific Electric Railway owners decided not to extend service to CdM; then-struggling Balboa became the end of the line. Corona del Mar remained the land across the bay - accessed by small boat.

In 1927, you could find more people in the bay than on land in Corona del Mar; Back in the day - the day being the 20s - Big Corona was the spot for surfers, with smooth slow rollers giving long rides across the harbor entrance sand bars.

Perhaps this is why in the following three years, Hart sold only five lots. And it wasn't for lack of trying. In the promises department, Hart was prolific; unfortunately, the only things that kept pace were his failures. To entice buyers, he promised an ocean pier, which he tried to build at what is now Corona del Mar State Beach. After being hammered by a few south swells, the pier was destroyed. He promised abundant water, but it took years for this to come through. He promised a Tent City to rival then revered Coronado's; no tents materialized. He did come through with a land route - today's Bayside Drive - and the three-story Hotel Del Mar in 1908 - "It boasted a bathroom on every floor," says Hendricks - but by 1915, Hart had only sold about 100 lots and CdM consisted of just 15 homes. Defeated and tired, Hart traded CdM for some farm land near Riverside.

The east jetty wiped that out. But during its heyday, CdM not only was the home turf of the mainlandŐs first surf organization, The Corona del Mar Surfboard Club, but also attracted legends like Californian Tom Blake and Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku. Unfortunately, when Blake organized the first mainland surf competition, the Pacific Coast Surf Riding Championships in 1928, the Duke was a no-show; Hotel Del Mar, opened in 1908 by George Hart to help attract visitors and boost land sales. That, along with promises of water, transportation and an ocean pier, did little to help.

The new owner of CdM was F.D. Cornell, who came to town as full as Hart with ideas on how to get CdM booming. "First," says Hendricks, "he wanted to change the name from Corona del Mar to Balboa Palisades, to try to take advantage of the Balboa name." But the few CdM residents objected. They had no problem with Cornell renaming all the streets, however, from numbers to today's flower names.

The first rocks get laid for the west jetty on September 10, 1917. It would be extended in 1919 and perfected in 1928, when the east jetty would be built; The date of this photo is unknown, but the structure in the foreground is the Public Bath House, which was something promised, and not delivered, for the first third of CdM's history. The famous China House at China Cove shows in the background; Atop the hill is the Hotel Del Mar/Palisades Tavern. Notice the sign boasting Coast Boulevard lots available. A hundred years later and it's all about ocean views.
The China House was a famous landmark at China Cove for decades. Built by a Pasadena man for his wife, who liked all things Chinese, it was cherished by locals as a "historical" treasure. Over much protest, it was torn down in the mid-80s. But pieces still exist. Today, parts of its roof grace two homes and there is a tiled plaque honoring the home inset into a wall.
One of the first projects George Hart promised and began was Pleasure Pier in 1905 at the beach now known as Big Corona. Because of constant battering from waves, it was never finished. This picture shows the remnants some time before all traces were wiped out in 1912; Oh, if we could go back in time: lots now in the millions sold for $100.

But nothing, it seemed, could interest buyers in what was seen as the boonies of CdM. When the Great Depression hit, all hope seemed lost - government repossessed lots were available for as low as $25. Corona del Mar became a vacationing spot for L.A. and Pasadena residents who hadn't lost everything, and it remained that way until after WWII.

"We came to CdM from Kansas in 1948," says 90-year-old Inez Howald, who still lives here. She and her husband, local legend and the late CdM Postmaster Grant Howald (the park is named after him), with their eight-year-old son, came for the weather. But the weather was the only thing easy about CdM in the 40s and 50s."There were no markets," she says. "We could get milk, eggs and bread delivered, but everything else we had to go to Santa Ana or Long Beach for." Of course, they had all the lobster and fish they wanted; the local waters still teemed with life.

And CdM did, too, in the form of children. The post-war baby boom meant CdM was overrun with kids, and the Howalds were instrumental in creating opportunities for them in many ways. Aside from helping found youth centers, parks, baseball diamonds, and schools, Grant Howald established scouting in CdM, which peaked with the famous Boy Scout Jamboree of 1953, when 50,000 scouts camped out in the fields off Jamboree Road.

A Fourth of July cruise in 1919. Does this count as the first harbor Independence Day parade?; Corona del Mar from the highway. The fact that it's there suggests it's post-1924.

One of the kids who was running around CdM at the time was Charles Wolf Masters, Jr., whose father, a builder, moved his family to CdM in 1946.Masters, Jr. was five years old. "At first Masters Sr. was putting up pre-fab homes," says Masters. He soon began building spec homes. And while he did well, it wasn't the boom it is today; Masters Sr. built over 80 spec homes in CdM and "more than a few times came close to losing his shirt," says Masters Jr. In fact, the China Cove home Masters Jr. lives in today, one house away from the sand, his father built in 1954 for $19,000. "He put it on the market for $29,500," says Masters. "Everyone got mad because they thought he was trying to drive up the prices on them." But he was saved since his wife loved the house so much, she insisted they move in themselves. Despite giving up building in 1964 because of the frustrations and red tape, they stayed the rest of their lives.

"It was like being Tom Sawyer as a kid in those days," says Masters. "It was wide open. There was the Big C crew, the Little C crew; Laguna was like an entirely other nation; the Wedge crew, who never spoke but just growled a lot, and nothing above 5th street."

But it couldn't last. Corona del Mar was slowly becoming a more desirable place to live, and as the 70s and 80s came, so did the people. The face of CdM changed, and perhaps there was no better example than the recent demolition of its first home: the Ocean Blvd. home of Bella Burton and, until her death earlier this year, her daughter Mary, who led the fight to save Corona del Mar State Beach from development in the 40s.

But while many have left CdM, fleeing the 30-by-90 lots, the traffic, and the construction, many realize that the essence of the place has not changed. CdM may be worth more on paper, and beach cottages are harder to come by than 4,000-square-foot manses, but at heart, CdM is still a small town. A place where residents buy flowers at the local stand, meet at the local Post Office and watch the sunset from a place called Inspiration Point. It's a place that feels all alone, in the middle of Southern California.


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